The geography you actually need to know
Dharamshala is two towns. Lower Dharamshala (1,475 m) is the administrative town — government offices, the bus stand, the cricket stadium. McLeodganj (2,082 m) is the Tibetan exile town 9 km up the hill — where the Dalai Lama lives, where the monasteries are, where every foreign traveller actually stays. The taxi ride between the two is 25 minutes; the views on the way up are part of the experience.
The Tsuglagkhang complex
The main temple. Open daily 5 AM to 8 PM. Morning chanting starts around 8 AM. The Dalai Lama's residence is on the same compound — closed to the public, but you may spot him during scheduled teachings (calendar at dalailama.com). Three things inside the complex are unmissable: the main prayer hall with the giant Buddha, the Kalachakra Temple murals, and the Tibet Museum (₹50 entry, closed Mondays).
Dress code: cover shoulders and knees. Leave shoes at the marked stand. Photography allowed in the courtyard, not inside the inner sanctum. Pickpocketing is essentially unheard of.
Beyond the temple
Bhagsu Nag waterfall and Shiva temple — 30-minute walk from McLeodganj main square, busy on weekends. Bhagsu Cafe at the top is famous among Israeli travellers. Norbulingka Institute (in lower Dharamshala valley) — Tibetan arts academy, beautifully landscaped, ₹50 entry, a quieter alternative to the main temple complex. Tibetan Children's Village school complex — only with a prior contact, not a tourist site. Triund trek — 9 km, 4–5 hours up to 2,875 m, popular overnight camping spot.
Where to stay
We recommend mid-range hotels in McLeodganj itself (Bhagsu Road, Jogiwara Road) rather than lower Dharamshala — the walk to the temple matters when you want to attend morning chanting. Budget: Loseling Guest House, Pema Thang. Mid-range (₹3,000–₹5,000): Hotel Tibet, Norling House. Above that, Pavilions Himalayas and Norbu House are quiet, garden-side, and out of the noisy main square.
Food worth the trip
Momos at Tibet Kitchen and Lung Ta Japanese (both vegetarian, both excellent). Thukpa noodle soup at Common Ground Cafe. For Indian food, Carpe Diem and Nick's Italian Kitchen have the best safe-for-foreign-stomach reputation. Bhagsu Cafe and Moonpeak Espresso for coffee and slow afternoons.
Avoid the street food on Bhagsu Road if you are not used to Indian water. Bottled water everywhere; we keep a stock in the car.
How long to stay
Two nights, three full days is the minimum to do the main temple, Bhagsu, the museum, and either Norbulingka or Triund. Add a fourth day for the Kangra Fort and Brajeshwari Mata Mandir down in the valley — a half-day excursion most foreign visitors skip and regret. Add a fifth day for Bir-Billing (45 minutes east) if paragliding is on the list.